One datapoint that hasn’t been highlighted enough is the supply chain behind these pieces. Emporio Armani is licensed to Fossil Group, which owns Swiss Technology Production (STP) in Ticino. The automatic “Swiss Made” EAs I’ve opened used STP1-11 (an ETA 2824-2 architecture) and the quartz variants ran Ronda. That explains how they meet the post‑2017 Swiss Made threshold without outsourcing prestige.
How do they stack up? The STP automatics are perfectly serviceable: 44 h power reserve, hacking, hand‑wind, typically regulate to ±7-15 s/d out of the box if not specially adjusted. Sapphire, decent dial furniture, competent case finishing, but nothing on the level of Longines/Oris in movement finishing or casework. Water resistance tends to be modest. After‑sales is the bigger caution: servicing funnels through Fossil’s network, resale is weak, and independents can service STP but brand parts (crowns, crystals) aren’t as straightforward.
Strategically, this reads as a halo line to lift ASPs and keep design‑led buyers in‑house rather than a push toward haute horlogerie. The “Swiss Made” stamp doesn’t change collector perception much; it does reassure department‑store buyers.
Would I spend retail? Only if the design really clicks. Otherwise I’d buy these pre‑owned (they depreciate heavily) or put the same money into Tissot/Longines/Oris-or, if you want a fashion house that’s truly invested in watchmaking, Hermès or Chanel.